Why Swatching Matters in Sweater Knitting
If there is one thing new knitters might find a little laborious, it’s swatching. But starting a sweater project without one can easily set you on the wrong path.
What Is Gauge and Why Does It Matter?
Simply put, having the correct gauge ensures your sweater measurements match those given in the pattern. The pattern tells you the gauge to aim for, as well as the yarn and needle size the designer used to achieve it. Depending on your personal knitting style, you may need to use a different needle size.
Gauge is affected by many things: the way we knit, the needles we use and the yarn itself. Even yarns within the same weight category can behave differently depending on their fibre content.
With sweaters, stitch gauge usually matters more than row gauge, as it often determines the width of the garment. Length is easier to adjust than width, so if you struggle to match both stitch and row gauge, choose the needle size that gives you the closest stitch gauge.
How to Knit a Proper Gauge Swatch
Knit your gauge swatch using the same yarn and needles you plan to use for the project. Gauge is usually measured over an area of 4 x 4” / 10 x 10 cm, so your swatch should be larger than this. The cast-on, bind-off and side edges can behave differently from the centre of the fabric and may affect your measurements.
If your sweater is worked in the round, it’s a good idea to knit your swatch in the round as well. Gauge often changes between flat and circular knitting. Some knitters also notice differences between knitting larger areas, such as the body, and smaller sections like sleeves.
Always Block Your Swatch
Blocking your swatch before measuring is an essential step. Unless otherwise stated, the gauge and finished measurements given in a pattern are always based on a blocked fabric.
The yarn and the gauge can change between blocked and unblocked fabrics, so this is an essential step. In addition to checking your gauge, the swatch will let you see if you like the fabric it creates and whether it is the right yarn for the pattern.
Test Stitch Patterns Before You Cast On
If the gauge is given only for Stockinette Stitch, your swatch is also a great opportunity to test any stitch patterns used in the design. Lace, cables and textured stitches can look very different depending on the yarn you choose.
This is especially useful when substituting yarns. Some fibres highlight texture beautifully, while others may soften or obscure the details.
Swatching may feel like an extra step, but it can save you a great deal of time and frustration later and help ensure your finished sweater is something you truly love to wear.
Text by Pauliina Kuunsola
Learn more:
Get started on sweater knitting: 52 Weeks of Sweaters
Top Tips for Knitting Your First Sweater!