Aleks Byrd & Grandmother’s Crafting Treasures
Some knitting books have a very special story to tell — and this is definitely one of them! Aleks Byrd’s Kindred Knits: Patterns from My Estonian Family Archives is a collection of knitwear designs inspired by the old sketchbooks of her Estonian grandmother, Hilja, and some of her family’s heirloom crafts. The designs are innovative and modern, yet rooted in tradition: an homage to previous generations and their shared love of craft.
Aleks is an illustrator and knitwear designer with Estonian, Canadian and American roots, whose debut book, Traditions Revisited, was published in 2022. The story of her second book, Kindred Knits, began while Aleks was clearing out her great-aunt Maret's apartment in Tallinn, Estonia. She found countless sketchbooks filled with craft-related drawings and clippings. They were collaged by Aleks’ grandmother, Hilja, before she left Estonia at the start of the war in the 1940s and later settled in Canada. These books served as the starting point for Aleks’ designs.
We talked with Aleks to learn more about this fascinating book and its backstory!
Aleks, describe the moment you found your grandmother’s old sketchbooks!
“The sketchbooks were hidden in a jumbled stack of books at the very back of a closet. When my mom took them out, she recognised my grandmother’s handwriting with ‘Hilja’ scrawled on the cover of one of the sketchbooks. It was a truly magical moment opening the books and flicking through each page. It honestly felt like discovering a hidden treasure chest.”
Did you instantly know you wanted to design something based on them?
“I immediately felt inspired when I started going through the sketchbooks. I wanted to drop everything and start sketching and swatching instead of cleaning the apartment. There were so many stitch patterns and motifs that I wanted to try.
I started the design process by making a moodboard with selected photos from the sketchbooks that really stood out to give a more focused inspiration. After that, I started sketching, as I like to plan things out on paper, drawing charts and sketching pattern ideas. I knew I had to include some Roosimine Estonian Inlay because I love that technique, as well as lace, which Hilja really loved.”
What was most inspiring about the sketchbooks, and what surprised you?
“The sketchbooks have been a window into my grandmother’s love of knitting. She had a stroke and wasn’t able to knit when I knew her, so they have given me an insight into what she loved.
I knew there would be plenty of lace, as I grew up hearing stories about Hilja’s love of lace knitting from my mom. Hilja could knit lace with the pattern largely in her mind or from a scribbled note on a little ripped piece of paper.
What I didn’t expect was the discovery of the sketchbooks in the first place. They had survived the Second World War and multiple moves by my great-grandmother and great aunt. I was also surprised to find patterns of so many textured knits — some that could be easily worn today and not considered vintage-looking. It’s definitely a reminder of how good design is timeless.”
You describe your grandmother as your “silent collaborator” in the book. Tell us a bit about Hilja and what she was like! Are you two similar in some ways?
“Hilja was super talented. She was a skilled cook who loved to cook for organisations with up to 1,000 people at a moment’s notice. She also wrote cooking recipes that were published in an international Estonian publication. In addition to all that, she ran cooking classes at her home in Toronto. It’s nice to think I’m now teaching knitting workshops and courses, so we share this part of our lives.
Hilja and I have a similar passion for making, though I don’t think my cooking skills could ever match hers! I do love making her ‘lemon fluff’ recipe, which is a lemon mousse dessert. We also share an affinity for languages, as we both speak Estonian, French and German. Hilja went to a German and French school in Estonia, and I learned both in various language schools.”
How does it feel now that the book is ready?
“I’m incredibly excited to see this book come to life. I loved the process of creating Traditions Revisited and was excited to work with Laine Publishing again. I really enjoy making books, as it brings together aspects of my two careers: I am an illustrator who learned to make books in university, but now also work as a knitwear designer.
This book feels extra special as it welcomes people into my family’s story of making. My grandmother published cooking recipes but never knitting patterns, so it feels like she gets to have that moment with this book.”
Is there a pattern in the book that is especially meaningful to you?
“Rändaja — a steeked floral colourblock cardigan — was the first pattern I really wanted to design. It was inspired by a photo of a similar sweater pattern collaged into the sketchbook, and I kept coming back to it every time I flicked through the sketchbooks. Recreating it was a fun challenge, opening my eyes to new ways to approach colourwork.”
You grew up in the US, but your Estonian roots seem to be very significant for you. How did your mother work to keep this part of your family history alive?
“Being Estonian is like being part of a special group. I’m fortunate my mom made sure I knew I was Estonian while growing up in the US. She involved me briefly in the Estonian embassy’s children’s group, and I was lucky to have Estonian nannies who spoke the language at home. I was always surrounded by art and books by Estonians. Estonian is the language I associate with terms of endearment from my childhood, which makes it extra special for me.”
For a small country, Estonia has rich knitting traditions. You are known for modernising them and bringing them to a broader audience. What is your personal favourite of the Estonian techniques?
“This is always a hard question to answer, as my choice changes day to day and as I learn new techniques. I would say my all-time favourite has to be Roosimine Estonian Inlay. It was the first distinctly Estonian technique I used, and it is just so addictive.”
You are just moving to Tallinn, to your great-aunt's old apartment. How does it feel to be there?
“I’m excited to be moving to Tallinn after going back and forth for a while. This is my first time living in Estonia after doing many month-long stays. It will be great to be able to be more regularly involved with the Estonian crafting community. Hopefully, I can do more events or trips to invite other knitters to visit Estonia and knit with me in the home of the techniques I use.
Tallinn has always felt like another home, even before I lived here. It’s nice to be in a place where I hear Estonian spoken widely and can eat all the comfort foods I grew up nostalgic for.”
Give us your top three tips for Tallinn!
“I love sharing recommendations for Tallinn! I’ll give you three varied tips from my continually updated list on my phone.
First, if you want to explore craft shops in the Old Town, my top pick is Eesti Käsitöö (Estonian Handicrafts) on Pikk street. They have changing monthly exhibitions by Estonian makers at the back of the shop that are worth checking out.
If you want a savoury or sweet treat (or both!), check out Nikolay Bar-Buffee. This café just outside the shopping area is known for decorative stuffed pies with a wide variety of sweet and savoury fillings. Grab a slice and a drink to enjoy a tasty treat in a cosy local spot.
Estonians love books — myself included! There are a lot of great bookshops carrying both new and old books. I love going to the secondhand book shops, as that is where you can find some real treasures, like old crafting books. One of my favourites is Raamatukoi on Harju street in the Old Town. Another good bookshop with a great café is Rahva Raamat by the Estonian National Opera. It’s actually the spot of one of the oldest bookshops in Europe.”
Which direction do you want to take your design work next?
“I’ve always been what I describe as a technique knitter. Stitch patterns and techniques largely drive how I create a pattern, and I like to design with thoughtfully placed details and motifs.
Working on Kindred Knits has changed my thinking about designing lace and colourwork, which I’m really excited about. I definitely see more lace, colourwork and, of course, Roosimine designs in the future. I also want to play more with combining multiple different yarns in a pattern for added depth to the techniques. And there is more inspirational material from my grandmother’s sketchbooks to play with!”
Learn more:
Aleks Byrd: Kindred Knits
Aleks Byrd: Traditions Revisited
Let Aleks Byrd teach you roosimine and vikkel