Jenny Ansah Turns City Life into Stitches
This is the knitwear book that many friends of modern, street-style knitwear have been waiting for — namely Jenny Ansah’s My City, My Stitches. The book includes 15 relaxed and urban knits, ranging from small accessories to sweaters, vests and cardigans, and it takes you on a journey into the diverse, multicultural neighbourhoods of East Helsinki.
Jenny Ansah (@kotikotoni) is an Afro-Finnish knitwear designer who lives in East Helsinki. We talked with Jenny about her book, her design work and her beloved neighborhoods!
Tell us your story in a nutshell: how did you become a knitter and knitwear designer?
“My grandmother taught me to knit when I was little, and I was already very good at crafts when I started school. After fourth grade, though, I took a break from knitting — my enthusiasm faded when at a craft class, the stitches of my mitten thumb started unravelling! I rediscovered knitting while studying at university: I saw people wearing really beautiful knitwear and street-style outfits, and I decided I wanted to learn to make things like that myself.
My career as a designer started with the Verso ribbed beanie. I knitted one for myself and posted it on social media, and people began asking for the pattern. I had done some test knitting for other knitwear designers, so I was already familiar with some parts of the design process. Through trials and errors, I've learned what the design process includes — and here we are!
Nowadays, knitting means, above all, a form of self-expression for me — a way to convey emotions through stitches and textures.”
You’ve lived most of your life in East Helsinki, and the knits in your book draw inspiration from memories you have of its different neighborhoods. What was it like revisiting those memories?
“Of course everyone has both good and bad memories in life, but above all, they made me feel proud of the kind of life I’ve been able to live here. I also drew a lot of ideas for the textures of my knits from the nature and architecture of different neighborhoods. I’m a very visual person, and I remember things like the surfaces or colours of buildings very vividly.”
In the Finnish media and political discourse, East Helsinki is often portrayed through negative aspects, such as crime or social problems. What is your East Helsinki like, and how does it challenge those stereotypes?
“My East Helsinki is an open, diverse and multicultural environment where you see the full spectrum of life. The east has its rough edges, but also a lot of community and warmth. Part of the East Helsinki identity is that you’re welcome exactly as you are. Here you can be a real person, not some polished surface. There’s also a lot of beautiful nature and plenty of opportunities for hobbies and activities.
At the book launch, I met many people from East Helsinki who were excited that a more positive and multifaceted image of the area is being highlighted. There is so much more here than what newspapers write about. Often, for example, politicians may speak about East Helsinki in a mocking tone, even though they’ve never actually been here. I think that says quite a lot about them as people.”
The photos in the book were taken at Puhos shopping center, an old mall originally built in the 1960s and known especially for its restaurants and grocery stores representing different food cultures. Why this location?
“At first, I thought each knit would be photographed in the neighborhood it’s named after, but that wouldn’t have been possible time-wise. So, I had to think of a place that would capture the grit of East Helsinki, but also its warmth and sense of community. And what better location than this shopping centre, along with the nearby Stoa cultural centre and library? They’re all meeting places where people from different backgrounds and socioeconomic situations gather, and the setting itself is really interesting.”
The knits in your book are texture-rich garments and accessories designed for everyday wear. How has your style as a designer evolved over the years?
“I’d say my style has shifted from something more delicate and nature-inspired toward a more streetwear-oriented direction. It also reflects the way I dress myself. I want handmade knits to be visible in everyday use and to be easy to combine in a relaxed way.”
How would you describe your design philosophy in three words?
“Relaxed, detailed and intentional.
It’s also important to me that my knits are size-inclusive — I want everyone to have the opportunity to make my designs and feel good wearing them. Often in grading knitwear patterns and in the clothing industry in general, the larger sizes are simply made longer and wider without really considering the garment’s fit. There’s this false idea that plus-size people want to dress in huge, baggy clothes, when in reality they may also want to highlight their shapes and curves.
I also try to find solutions where the design of the knit doesn’t need to change much when it’s graded. For example, if you add extra cables or textures to the largest sizes, it can change the overall look quite a lot. My goal is for the knit to look the same on everyone.”
Do your designs have any recognizable, recurring details?
“Probably textured surfaces and combinations of larger and smaller cables. Bobbles are also very much my thing — I know they can sometimes be challenging and time-consuming, but I think they add character and a nice detail to knitwear.”
What kind of knitters is the book aimed at?
“The book includes patterns suitable for both beginners and more experienced knitters. For beginners, I would recommend, for example, the Puotila beanie, which is a simple 2 x 2 ribbed hat, or the Rastila sweater, which is knitted in a thicker yarn without texture. For knitters looking for more of a challenge, the Itis sweater and the Siilitie slipover are good options.
The Puhos cardigan, which is also featured on the book’s cover, seems to have become a favourite for many people. It’s a great example of how something very simple — combining garter stitch and stockinette stitch — can create an interesting texture. I’m currently knitting another Puhos myself in cobalt blue yarn; one of the inspirations for the design was actually a cobalt blue sculpture that you can find in the Stoa square, near the Puhos mall.”
What kinds of reactions or feelings do you hope the book will evoke in readers?
“They always say that art is successful if it sparks reactions, and that’s what I hope for as well. The most important message I want to convey with the book is that every person is valuable and every story matters. I also hope that as many people as possible will discover the joy of handicrafts that shines through the book.
This project was very personal for me. I’m quite a private person, but in the book I open up about my life more than I usually do. I feel that when I dare to be more myself, I can also find people who relate to my story.”
My City, My Stitches is your debut book. What was it like to see the finished book for the first time?
“I work at the Sunday Knitting Club yarn shop, and I first got to hold the book while I was at work. I was packing online orders when my colleague, who was unloading the book shipment, called out, ‘Jenny, your book is here!’ It was a really surreal feeling to hold the finished book in my hands: there was joy, fear and excitement all mixed together. Like — wow, this is really here now, this almost two-year-long project!”
What kinds of themes would you like to draw knitting inspiration from next?
“I enjoy travelling, and during my trips I’ve met knitters from all around the world. So some kind of travel-themed knitting book would be wonderful to make. When I was in high school, I lived in Sendai, Japan, and I’m still in touch with my host family from 15 years ago. Those memories would be interesting to draw ideas from.
I’m also a bit of a foodie and I love cooking — maybe inspiration could come from food and different food cultures as well!”
Finally, give us a few tourist tips for East Helsinki!
“While visiting the Vuosaari Hill to enjoy the views, you should also make a trip to Café Kampela, located next to the Uutela outdoor recreation area. They have really good fish soup and homemade sweet buns.
One of my favorite places is the Marimekko factory outlet in Herttoniemi. It’s a great place to get inspired by colours, and on weekdays the shop’s restaurant also serves lunch.
For a forest walk, I recommend my childhood favourite spot, Kallahdenniemi. I’ve often visited the beach there, and in the summer there’s also a restaurant called Maininki where you can get great food.
And I absolutely recommend the book’s photo location, the Puhos shopping centre, to anyone who wants to try different food cultures, eat well and meet truly wonderful people. It’s worth going soon, before half of the building is demolished to make way for the new zoning plan. My own favorites at Puhos include Alanya Market and the other grocery stores, where I often go to look for spices and seasonal vegetables, as well as the Somali restaurant on the second floor.”
TEXT: MAIJA KANGASLUOMA
PHOTOS: RIIKKA KANTINKOSKI
Learn more:
My City, My Stitches: 15 relaxed knits